Introducing the Spring/Summer 2019 debut collection by Riccardo Tisci, shown on the runway in September and captured in a campaign by six photographers who were invited to interpret his new vision through their own eyes.
For Kingdom, Riccardo Tisci introduced four distinctive characters – the lady and the girl, the gentleman and the boy – and designed a wardrobe for each, for every occasion.
Ladylike pleated skirts and pussy-bow blouses sat alongside sculptural corsets and printed streetwear. Menswear juxtaposed elegant tailoring including the new English-fit suit, inspired by Savile Row, with youthful and boyish proportions, bold patterns and prints.
‘The thing that excites me the most about Burberry is it appeals to everyone no matter their age. When I was thinking about my first campaign here, I knew I wanted to work with a collection of collaborators to help interpret the breadth of what this incredible heritage house represents to so many different people – from the millennial to the mature, to the British and to the international.’
Part One: a Story by Nick Knight
In collaboration with Riccardo Tisci, British photographer and filmmaker Nick Knight captured the aesthetic of the ‘lady’ and unveiled more about her character. Her elegant apartment decorated in shades of beige, the art she collects – British artist Jenny Saville featured – and, of course, how she pulls her look together. Every detail is considered, from coordinating shoes and bag to the sleek scarf-tied chignon.
‘I have known and admired Riccardo’s work for a long time and I have always thought that he has an amazing and elegant vision.’
Part Two: a Story by Danko Steiner
Photographer, filmmaker and former design director of American Vogue, Danko Steiner celebrated house codes with cinematic quality – iconising the new Burberry logo, shades of Burberry beige, the Thomas Burberry Monogram and the Icon stripe.
‘It was very inspiring to deconstruct all the elements that were the inspiration for the collection – and create something new that represents Riccardo’s Burberry.’
Photographer Hugo Comte created elegant portraiture of Riccardo Tisci’s runway bags. The TB bag finished with The Thomas Burberry Monogram – created by Riccardo Tisci and British designer Peter Saville in honour of the founder of Burberry.
And the Cube, called so because it appears to be a box you can open and shut, adorned with the new Icon stripe, a deconstructed element of iconic Burberry Vintage check.
Part Four: a Story by Peter Langer
Berlin-based photographer Peter Langer told stories through structural still life, inspired by an archive image discovered by Riccardo Tisci when he first arrived at Burberry. The unique compositions throw spotlight on key pieces from the collection. The umbrella holster, designed with a bicycle-chain-inspired strap, and another new Burberry signature for the gentleman, the coordinating shirt-and-tie twinset.
‘I was excited to translate the legendary Burberry heritage into a contemporary moment.’
Californian photographer Colin Dodgson captured the poised and refined lady in her universe of beige, through an emotionally charged lens. She is composed and pulled together in exquisite tailoring threaded with the Society scarf, inspired by a Burberry fragrance advertisement discovered in the archive.
‘I hope the viewer can feel these images, and get a sense of what this new collection is all about.’
Half-British, half-Swedish photographer Letty Schmiterlow captured the bold energy of the Burberry boy and girl.
A fashion story that not only conveys the collection but the spirit and mood of this generation: youthful, raw and confident. Shakespearean quotes are used with irony, as well as inspiration found on the streets of London, including prints of London transport tickets. All in a new house palette of black, white, red, pistachio and beige.
‘I was thinking a lot about journeys as I started putting together my first Burberry collection. From my personal journey back to London 20 years after I showed my graduate collection here, to how far I have come. I was also inspired by how much London – the city that made me dream to become a designer – has evolved.’